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Saturday, December 22, 2018

Tell me, what's going on?


Members of the European Union can travel freely within the participating countries.  They can work, set up businesses, buy homes, live in them.  Americans have other hoops to jump through.

Within eight business days of arrival, one must file the application for the “Permesso di Soggiorno”…permit to stay.  That we did, in the Postale. 

The Italian post office is more than just a place to send mail and packages, they are an arm of the interior ministry and you can pay utility bills and taxes via the post office.  They are very modern and set up much like the Social Security offices in the U.S.  When you enter, you go up to a computer and select the button that describes why you are there.  The computer then issues you a number and you then wait to see it displayed on the LED screen.   For us, it seems, there have never been big crowds and they have an adequate number of people working, so our waits have been very short.

When we filed for the Permesso, the postal clerk gave us an appointment at the Questura (Police Department) in the county seat of Pescara. 

That day, November 19th, we took the hour long bus ride down to Pescara and had already arranged to have our realtor show up to help us translate. 

The Office of Immigration was easy to find and the door opened to the street.  The scene inside was less than pleasant.

It is a small room with a dull, grayish (possibly dirty) ceramic floor in a herringbone pattern.  The walls are a sickly white.  There are, on either side, metal benches in black with only enough room to seat 6 people.  The far end of the room, like a bank tellers’ counter, is glassed in with a mere two desks and clerks.  There were at least thirty people crowded inside, milling about and there seemed to be no rhyme or reason to what anyone was doing.  Although there was an old fashioned dispenser for paper numbers (such as at a deli stand in a supermarket) it was empty and there was also an LED display high up on one wall, but it was not changing. 

Trying not to panic, we were greatly relieved when our realtor arrived.  She managed to wiggle her way closer to one of the clerks and she figured out that they were calling people up to the windows based on the times of their appointments and they were not up to ours as yet.  Phew!!

In another stroke of luck, when one of the clerks got to us, she called out our name rather than the time and I heard her loud and clear.  Yay!

The clerk had our files, verified everything and handed us a piece of paper to take elsewhere.  Again, without Daniela there, we would have been lost.  At that point we had to go to the actual police station, which is behind a solid locked steel gate manned by an officer in a fortified cubicle. 

Inside the gate was actually quite nice, with a small garden area, a soda machine and an office building to the left.  We could not find the room we had to report to, so Daniela asked an officer who happened to wander by. 

Once where we were supposed to be, two officers then checked our photos, fingerprints, verified our height and that was that. 

We were told to expect an email communication in approximately six weeks, to let us know that our applications were being processed. 

So, imagine my surprise when, just three weeks later, I got a text message (not an email) that the permits were ready.  I was pretty sure I understood what the message said, but I checked the translation anyway, just so there would be no misunderstanding, especially with my anxiety ridden husband.  The message said to show up on December 21st at precisely 9:04 am.  I was thrilled, since they open the doors at 9, so we would most likely be the first people called.

Not so thrilling was the fact that my greatest fear happened – my knees gave out.  I had done too much, too soon and for too long, like someone starting a new exercise routine and overdoing it and then having to be bedridden for a few days.

I did my best to rest and I applied ice and elevated the left leg.  I could walk around just fine inside and I could even go uphill, but going down an incline caused excruciating pain.  So, with lots of worry and trepidation, I awoke on the 21st at 5:30 am, in order to allow lots of time to make the mostly downhill stroll to the bus station.

I put a soft knee brace on my good knee to give it extra support.  We took it slowly.  When we came to the first incline, I went sideways (as suggested in an article I read on the internet).  Luckily, that early in the morning, no one was around and lo and behold, going sideways worked.  Lastly, there are a series of gradual stairs to the station.  Taking them one at a time, like a baby, got me to the station without triggering the pain.

We discovered that there was a non-stop bus to Pescara, so we hopped (hahaha…I struggled to pull myself up the bus steps) on that.

Feeling a bit groggy, it was hard to stay awake, but once we got to Pescara I roused myself and my husband, since I could see the station.  Good thing, too, because this non-stop did NOT stop in the bus station, but just outside and we nearly missed our chance to disembark!

It was chilly but nice, perhaps in the low 40s and the sun was just coming up.  On our slow trek to the Questura we stopped in a cafĂ© for cappuccino.  So far, so good.

We continued on our way and made it to the Questura with 10 or more minutes to spare.  Another big crowd was waiting outside the door to the immigration office. My first thought was, “I’m so glad we have an early appointment.” 

Then someone came outside and said something I couldn’t hear and the next thing we knew was some young woman was handing out numbers…paper numbers!   What!  I grabbed one when I could because, why not?  But I finally got her attention and told her I had an appointment. Her response?  “There are no appointments today, take a number.”  I thought she worked for the Questura, but she was just another person waiting.  I think she was Russian.  She saw my look of horror and told me to follow her, she would help me inside.  Already, this was chaos and I could see my husband having a meltdown.
The door opened and the throng piled in.  Two muslim women with two small children, one with a bad cough.  Some Asian men and women, a lot of Africans, and those of us who are nondescript. One big, disorganized crowd moving almost as a single organism up to two little windows.  


The Russian gal did manage to make her way through the all the people and asked the man behind the glass about my predicament.  He said the permits were ready (as I thought, but what about the appointment?) but take a number and wait.  Well, I already had my now wrinkled and slightly sweaty little number and it was 19.  How the hell long is THAT going to take?

The seats were all taken, we were crammed into this room like a NY City subway during rush hour, and the LED was displaying the number 93.  93? (Turns out they go up to 100 and back to 1) 

For the sake of my knee, I did my best to evenly distribute the burden on each leg.  But sometimes it became too much, so I had to balance on the just the good leg. 

Someone stinks.  Really, really badly.  There is a very strong filthy body odor with an extra added layer or alcohol wafting over to me. It may be emanating from someone’s clothes.  Not wanting to start retching in the middle of a crowded room, I tell my husband I have to get outside. “You can’t go outside, you will never get back in!”  He may be right.

With difficulty, I managed to wiggle over to a corner by the wall where I was not exposed to whoever stinks.  Still standing.  Number 99. 

The Questura computers keep going down.  They are on the second reboot.  Number 2.   Now I have to move again, because I really can’t stand up on my own anymore.  So my husband props me up for a while so I can relieve this weak knee.

While there are all sorts of much younger and seemingly able bodied men sitting on the benches, another older lady behind me is saying “Signora!  Signora!” and she is offering me her seat.  “Grazie mille!”  Even here, the same old, same old. 

Numbers 4, 5, 6, 7 moved along pretty well until they got to 10 and had to do another reboot. 

Waiting…..waiting……and I am wondering why on earth this Questura is so primitive?  One day they have a system – call people by appointment.  Another day they are handing out paper numbers.  The post office is ultra modern.  The banks are ultra modern.  The office where you get a tax id is ultra modern.  What is the deal with the Office of Immigration?  Why even send me an “appointment” if the appointment is meaningless? 

Number 17.  At that point I stood up again.  Hurray, Number 19!  At long last!  It was the same man from earlier and he remembered me.   It took, literally, about three minutes for him to find the permits, verify our fingerprints (THAT they have, an electronic fingerprint machine) and we were OUT of there.  So the 9:04 “appointment” became 10:15.  And although that doesn’t sound like such a long time it did seem, as it unfolded, like a never ending, uncomfortable, interminable eternity.

We slowly made our way back to the station and were able to catch an 11 o’clock bus back, bringing us home by 12:30 pm.  By that time, the weak knee had begun to throb and was more than ready for rest and ice.  But we made it.  We did it.  We are legal residents.